The ABC of Topical Skin Nutrition (Aestheticians/SkinTherapists only)

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Many Therapists find it confusing when starting to build on their ingredient knowledge and ask for a break down of the most often used vitamins in cosmeceutical products. This is a simplified version of a very complex science and does not replace the need for Therapists to learn and understand the organ they work with on a daily basis – the skin!

Educate yourself constantly and start with the skin cells. Understanding this first will not only make it easier for you to explain the need for skin care products containing these ingredients to your client; it will also increase your retail sales ten fold. Every client will walk out of the spa with home care products and your appointment schedule should be full with return treatments.

Now this doesn’t mean these vitamins are only for these conditions, but these are the skins that need to have these ingredients as a priority.

1. Vitamin A = Acne & Ageing.

Retinyl Palmitate/Acetate, Retinol, Retinaldehyde, Retinoic Acid

Retinoids (family of Vitamin A) are used to repair cellular damage and cell turnover. All skin needs this vitamin to improve cell function.

Client Tip: “Retinoids normalize cells – from cell function to cell turnover”

2. Vitamin B3 = Barrier & Brown (pigmentation) Vitamin B3: Niacinamide, Nicotinamide

Vitamin B3 assists with the repair of the skins barrier and inhibits the transfer of the melanosome to the keratinocyte – improving hyperpigmentation.

Client Tip: “Vitamin B3 improves the barrier function – hydrating the skin and protects the skin from pigmenting”

3. Vitamin B5 = Blood & Barrier

Vitamin B5: Panthenol

Vitamin B5 assists with wound care and improving the skins barrier. Client Tip: “Soothes and inflamed skin”

4. Vitamin C = Collagen & Colour
Vitamin C: Ascorbic Acid, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbyl

Tetraisopalmitate, and Ascorbyl Glucoside

Vitamin C assists with the collagen production by improving fibroblast production. It improves hyperpigmentation as it acts as a tyrosinase inhibitor. Vitamin C is also a powerful antioxidant; therefore assists with cell damage caused by free radicals.

Client Tip: “A great ingredient to improve the signs of ageing with a better quality collagen production while also improving the appearance of skin discolouration.”

Remember, this is a simplified version of ingredient science that all Therapists must know to be successful in treating client’s skin conditions.

I hope it helps.

Donna x

 

©Donna Cummins-Campbell and MySkin-Coach, 2012. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Donna Cummins-Campbell and MySkin-Coach with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.

Skin Care in your 30’s

 

Dear 30 Something

Dear 30 Something

Dear 30 Something

This is the age group where you will really start to see many changes with your skin. Many women notice an increase in signs of ageing and changes with colour of the skin.  Continue reading

Skin Care in Your 20’s

20 year old skin

Dear 20 Something,

In my last post, I spoke about skin care in your teens. This post is for the 20 something age group and is not too different to your skin care regime as a teenager but the focus is not on the breakout, but on the ageing aspect of skin! Continue reading

Is a Moisturiser enough?

beautiful woman hands with cream

My post this week comes from a question one of my followers has sent through:

“My Skin-Coach, my skin care regime is limited to cleansing of an evening and using a light Moisturiser in the morning and again in the evening. I am 32, is this enough?” signed, Jessie

Continue reading

Dry, Irritated Skin: Why?

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This weeks blog is an answer to a question that was sent to me privately in hope I could give Mel some guidance to her skin concerns. As you can see by my response, there are many aspects to consider when looking at skin complaints and these can be subject to many determining factors.

 Mel’s question:

 “MySkin-Coach, can you please advise what I should use when I have really dry skin please? It doesn’t matter what I use in my skin care, my skin always feels really dry and at times, irritated.”

 MySkin-Coach response:

 Dear Mel,

 Firstly, Thank you for your question. This seems to be a common concern with many people and it would also depend on many things.

 Where do you live? If it is a very dry & hot climate, or even a very windy, cold climate, the skin may constantly feel dry and often irritated. Obviously good skin care will need to be taken into consideration.

Do you use a Cleanser that foams or lathers? This may be stripping the skins natural barrier, leaving the skin feeling taut and dry.

Do you use a Toner that is alcohol based or has astringent properties? Also possibly removing your barrier.

You may need to use a Moisturiser that will help rebuild your skins barrier. This may mean using a cream and not a milk or lotion as your moisturizer.

Using harsh ingredients too often will also leave the skin feeling irritated and dry, so as a Dermal Health Practitioner, I need to take these into consideration.

 Also, what is your diet like? Not enough consumption of healthy fats, will impair your skin cells membranes and may cause increased dehydration due to the skins barrier not being optimized. Increasing your Omega 3 is going to benefit your skin and assist with minimizing water loss through the upper layers.

 What is your age? This will also make a difference. Ageing can also cause trans epidermal loss and a build up of dead skin cells that leave the skin feeling thicker and looking dull.

 How is your general health? Some medications may effect your skin’s hydration and barrier.

 As you can see, there are many contributing factors to a dry skin and just a couple of scenarios that we have to consider before making a correct diagnosis.

 Your best option is to seek a Skin Care Specialist that truly understands the skin and is qualified to prescribe effective skin care. You may also wish to seek the opinion of a Nutritionist to make some changes with your diet as many skin conditions are triggered by certain foods or chemicals within foods.

 All the very best and once again, thank you.

 DCC/MySkin-Coach x

 

Successful Acne Management

Successful Acne Management

Successful Acne Management

One of the most distressing of all skin conditions, is acne. As a teenager, I suffered terribly with an aggressive form of Cystic Acne and was very grateful for the help from a Skin Therapist. Weekly, I had treatments to treat the condition. Fortunately with the greatness of time and science, we can now achieve faster and better results by following these steps: Continue reading

Vitamin B3 and treating skin pigmentation

With the fast approach of our warmer months (southern hemisphere) and the last rays of summer in the northern hemisphere, it is worthwhile mentioning an effective way of treating skin pigmentation. Without harping on about wearing a sunscreen,which we all know is an absolute must to prevent this condition, I wanted to share a fantastic ingredient we now find in most good skin care ranges.

Niacinamide is a physiologically active derivative of Vitamin B3 and works at decreasing melanosome (pigment) transfer within our skin and is effective with all skin colours. Not only does it decrease skin pigmentation, it also boosts the skins immune system which can be suppressed when exposed to ultra violet radiation and helps with the repair of the skins barrier function (see previous post, Do you have sensitive skin? Then Your Barriers are down… Sept 5th 2012), by increasing synthesis of skin lipids.

This wonderful cosmetic ingredient has been noted in various double blind studies and the percentages have ranged from 4% – 10% with results well worth taking notice of. I prescribe products containing Niacinamide to 100% of my clients and ask they use it in the morning. If their skin is hyper sensitive, I suggest they use it morning and night until we see an improvement. I include it in all my protocols to treat skin conditions such as; Rosacea, Acne, Eczema, Photo Aged and also post cancer treatments when the skin has hyper sensitivity due to barrier function impairment from medications. When the skin has been affected with post inflammatory hyper pigmentation, this is my priority ingredient. I then reassess my protocol as the skin begins to repair and present less inflamed.

I would love to know what your thoughts are of this ingredient, are you currently using a product containing #Niacinamide? Have you noticed changes with your skin?

If you think your skin has any of these conditions, I cannot recommend a product with this ingredient in it fast enough. Try it and let me know what your results are.