Skin care in your 50’s & beyond

50-Year-Old-Woman

Your 50’s and beyond is a time where we celebrate the wisdom we have gathered over many years. Our skin reflects our lifestyle so if we have neglected our skin, we may look older or more tired than we actually feel. Continue reading

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The ABC of Topical Skin Nutrition (Aestheticians/SkinTherapists only)

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Many Therapists find it confusing when starting to build on their ingredient knowledge and ask for a break down of the most often used vitamins in cosmeceutical products. This is a simplified version of a very complex science and does not replace the need for Therapists to learn and understand the organ they work with on a daily basis – the skin!

Educate yourself constantly and start with the skin cells. Understanding this first will not only make it easier for you to explain the need for skin care products containing these ingredients to your client; it will also increase your retail sales ten fold. Every client will walk out of the spa with home care products and your appointment schedule should be full with return treatments.

Now this doesn’t mean these vitamins are only for these conditions, but these are the skins that need to have these ingredients as a priority.

1. Vitamin A = Acne & Ageing.

Retinyl Palmitate/Acetate, Retinol, Retinaldehyde, Retinoic Acid

Retinoids (family of Vitamin A) are used to repair cellular damage and cell turnover. All skin needs this vitamin to improve cell function.

Client Tip: “Retinoids normalize cells – from cell function to cell turnover”

2. Vitamin B3 = Barrier & Brown (pigmentation) Vitamin B3: Niacinamide, Nicotinamide

Vitamin B3 assists with the repair of the skins barrier and inhibits the transfer of the melanosome to the keratinocyte – improving hyperpigmentation.

Client Tip: “Vitamin B3 improves the barrier function – hydrating the skin and protects the skin from pigmenting”

3. Vitamin B5 = Blood & Barrier

Vitamin B5: Panthenol

Vitamin B5 assists with wound care and improving the skins barrier. Client Tip: “Soothes and inflamed skin”

4. Vitamin C = Collagen & Colour
Vitamin C: Ascorbic Acid, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbyl

Tetraisopalmitate, and Ascorbyl Glucoside

Vitamin C assists with the collagen production by improving fibroblast production. It improves hyperpigmentation as it acts as a tyrosinase inhibitor. Vitamin C is also a powerful antioxidant; therefore assists with cell damage caused by free radicals.

Client Tip: “A great ingredient to improve the signs of ageing with a better quality collagen production while also improving the appearance of skin discolouration.”

Remember, this is a simplified version of ingredient science that all Therapists must know to be successful in treating client’s skin conditions.

I hope it helps.

Donna x

 

©Donna Cummins-Campbell and MySkin-Coach, 2012. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Donna Cummins-Campbell and MySkin-Coach with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.

Skin Care in Your 20’s

20 year old skin

Dear 20 Something,

In my last post, I spoke about skin care in your teens. This post is for the 20 something age group and is not too different to your skin care regime as a teenager but the focus is not on the breakout, but on the ageing aspect of skin! Continue reading

How do I know which skin care product is for me?

Skin Analysis

A great question from Jessica, a MS-C follower, is the subject for todays post: “Im not sure which skin care is right for me. There are so many to choose from, and so many claims, I am now confused…..”

I agree! So many options and choices, what is the right product for you?

Continue reading

Is a Moisturiser enough?

beautiful woman hands with cream

My post this week comes from a question one of my followers has sent through:

“My Skin-Coach, my skin care regime is limited to cleansing of an evening and using a light Moisturiser in the morning and again in the evening. I am 32, is this enough?” signed, Jessie

Continue reading

Who wants a more youthful skin?

 

Secrets to a more youthful skin

As we age, we produce less energy for cell regeneration and DNA repair. Our supply of Antioxidants also declines and oxidation of our cell membranes allow us to lose more moisture, leaving our skin feeling dehydrated and possibly irritated.

We require a higher intake of Omega 3 fatty acids such as fish oil on a daily basis and antioxidant supplementation both orally and topically to reduce oxidation. As we age our skin dehydrates faster due to the reduction of sodium pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (Sodium PCA), a NMF – Natural Moisturising Factor, found in the skin. From the age of approximately 50, this NMF will  halve in production.

Do you have sun/age spots? We see these pigmented lesions as we age due to the Melanocytes – cells that produce our skins Melanin/Pigment, clumping together. Some great ingredients to assist with the lightening of the skin and to minimise future pigmentation are; Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), which I have mentioned in previous posts and n-acetyl glucosamine. When these ingredients are used together they will assist with the production of Hyaluronic Acid, another NMF (Natural Moisturising Factor) to assist the with skins moisturising ability.

Some other important nutrients required for skin health are:

  • Co enzyme Q10 = Increased production of collagen by fibroblast
  • Vitamin E = cell membrane antioxidant
  • Vitamin A = cellular repair, optimised cell turnover, antioxidant
  • Vitamin C = Increased production of collagen by fibroblast
  • Alpha Lipoic Acid = decreased skin glycation

Acid and Alkaline

When you eat too many acidic foods, your body has to find alkalising materials to neutralise its pH levels. If you eat a highly acidic diet and not enough foods that create alkalinity, your body will use the calcium and protein in your bones to buffer the effects of acidity. The result is weak bones and accelerated aging of the body and the skin. Your health depends on the balanced pH of your blood. Chances are, if you wake feeling sluggish and tired, you are more acid than alkaline.

Our blood should be a pH of 7.35 to keep us healthy, so a diet high in minerals should be considered – lots of fresh fruit and vegetables. A ratio of approximately 70:30 (alkaline:acid) should be consumed as we still need a small amount of acidic forming foods to allow for absorption of certain minerals, e.g Calcium and the breaking down of animal proteins.

The following is an excerpt from a study on the benefits of an alkaline diet: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3195546/pdf/JEPH2012-727630.pdf

“The pH in our body may vary considerably from one area to another with the highest acidity in the stomach (pH of 1.35 to 3.5) to aid in digestion and protect against opportunistic microbial organisms. But even in the stomach, the layer just outside the epithelium is quite basic to prevent mucosal injury. It has been suggested that decreased gastric lining secretion of bicarbonates and a decrease in the alkaline/acid secretion in duodenal ulcer patients may play a significant role in duodenal ulcers. The skin is quite acidic (pH 4–6.5) to provide an acid mantle as a protective barrier to the environment against microbial overgrowth. There is a gradient from the outer horny layer (pH 4) to the basal layer (pH 6.9). This is also seen in the vagina where a pH of less than 4.7 protects against microbial overgrowth.”

Our skin shows accelerated aging if our blood is an acidic pH, and we see the signs as premature deep lines and wrinkles and a ‘cross-linking’ effect which we call Glycation (I’ll be doing an article on this in the near future). Our skin functions best at a healthy acidic pH, the opposite of our blood so please don’t get confused. Our skin must retain its healthy acidic pH to protect its underlying structures and negate microbial invasion. Interestingly as we age, our skin starts to alkalise and this is when we see the signs of thickening and dead skin cell build up. Our skins natural desquamation processes work best at an acidic pH level and if the skin retains an alkaline state, the enzymes responsible for this process are unable to perform. The end result is a thickening of the Stratum Corneum, the outermost layer of skin, the layer we see and touch.

The topical use of AHA’s in skin care products work well at re-acidifying the upper layers of the skin and the desquamation process is then optimised. Many people believe that these popular cosmetic acids force the skin to ‘peel’ however, when used in low dosages and higher, mild pH, they work best and do not cause sensitivity as they would at higher concentrations and lower pH.  Something to consider as we age, I would say.

I have seen many skins that have been sensitised when using very strong acids long term, and I don’t believe this is necessary for great results. A young, healthy skin does not require daily doses of acids, their skins pH is more than likely balanced and I would concentrate with a preventative program for long term skin health. For aging skins, then look for products that contain a mixture of AHA’s: Glycolic, Lacitc, Malic, Citric, etc and ensure they are a mild and gentle pH. I prefer to use a product more regularly at a pH of 4.0-4.2. Use at night only and please, please, please, protect your skin with sun protection.

For a copy of an alkaline food chart, please take a look at: www.acidalkalinediet.com/AlkalineFoods-Chart.htm

For an alkaline water filter, please take a look at my previous post “AlkaStream Water Filter” or : http://alkaway.com.au